Water blooms and cloudy water in the aquarium
Table of contents
- Identify different water turbidity in the aquarium
- Brownish turbidity due to suspended matter
- Whitish water turbidity
- Greenish water turbidity
Identifying different types of water turbidity in the aquarium
Annoying: the freshly set up aquarium becomes cloudy, the water no longer appears crystal clear and transparent, but a bit misty. But even in aquariums that have been running for a long time, water turbidity can appear, which, depending on the cause, can have unpleasant consequences for the aquarium inhabitants, not to mention the less pretty appearance.
Depending on the cause, you have to take different measures against water turbidity in the aquarium, so you should first take a very close look to find the culprit that clouds the water in your aquarium.
Water turbidity can simply be caused by suspended matter such as stirred-up mulm or stirred-up substrate particles - in which case it tends to be brownish. If the germ density in the open water increases strongly, one speaks of bacteria bloom - you recognize it by a whitish turbidity. If the turbidity is whitish, but tiny bright spots can be seen, some of which form clouds, it is called an infusiorial bloom. Algal blooms, on the other hand, are caused by floating algae and are greenish in color.
By the way, a zeolite-based water conditioner can help against slight water turbidity regardless of the type of turbidity - the zeolite particles trap the fine suspended particles and are then better retained in the filter because they are larger.
Simple trick to identify water turbidity
If the water turbidity is not yet that pronounced, it can sometimes be difficult to tell exactly whether it is whitish or slightly greenish. It can help to dip a clean, white sheet of paper or plastic halfway into the water just behind the front glass and compare. If the sheet appears slightly green in the water, we are looking at an algae bloom. If it appears beige to brownish, it is suspended matter, and there is little change in color, there is much to be said for a bacterial bloom or an infusorial bloom.
Brownish turbidity due to suspended solids
Suspended fine mulm or debris from the substrate often "sticks" in the water for a long time and can cause fine or more turbidity. If you pull plants out of the ground, the water contamination can even be quite considerable.
But water turbidity can also occur during a new setup if the gravel or sand was not rinsed out carefully enough before being added to the aquarium. During transport there is always abrasion, which hangs as fine dust in the water. Very sharp sand and very large suspended particles can cause problems with the filter if these particles get into the axle - then they can cause scoring on the filter axle of the filter wheel. This tends to make the filter a little noisier.
Remedy
Water turbidity caused by suspended solids during setup or after gardening is eliminated by a large water change. It helps to generously vacuum already settled mulm from the bottom. Afterwards, fine filter wadding or filter fleece in the filter helps to completely remove the last remains.
When filling in fresh water during a water change, proceed with caution so as not to stir up the whole mess again.
Whitish water turbidity
A white mist in the aquarium is usually a bacterial bloom caused by bacteria. In this case, many nutrients have dissolved in the water, which are consumed by bacteria in the water column. The bacteria consume a lot of oxygen in the process, so a bacterial bloom is not entirely harmless in an aquarium stocked with fish and invertebrates. The inhabitants can quickly run out of air.
If the suspended particles are clearly visible as fine white spots and form clouds in the aquarium water, it is more likely an infusoria bloom - it often follows the actual bacteria bloom and consists of larger protozoa such as amoebae, rotifers, etc., which eat the bacteria in the open water and multiply explosively thanks to the rich food supply. As a result, the infusoria themselves can become an aquatic bloom - an infusoria bloom.
Especially in newly set up aquariums, bacterial blooms are almost inevitable - here the biological system is just settling down, and nutrient imbalances occur, which can then feed the bacteria. A bacterial bloom in an aquarium that has been running for some time should be investigated more closely - what is causing the excess nutrients in the aquarium water? Has too much food been fed? Not enough water changed? Is there a larger dead animal lying somewhere that was not noticed? These are just a few of the questions to ask when the water in a running aquarium becomes visibly cloudy white.
Remedy
Also, if you have a bacterial bloom or infusoria bloom in your aquarium, an immediate large water change will help to clear out the excess nutrients and, of course, the bacteria.
Alternatively, the bacteria and infusoria can be combated with a UV-C clarifier, which can be run temporarily in the aquarium. Here the bacteria and other microbes in the water are killed and rendered harmless by the strong UV radiation in the UV burner. Everything worth knowing about the UV-C clarifier at the aquarium can be found in our extra article "UV-C clarifier for clean, clear water in the aquarium", which will go online next week.
An oxidizer for the aquarium can also help with a high density of germs in the water - it emits active oxygen, which simply oxidizes the bacteria away.
Humic substances as a water additive for the aquarium (for example our NatureHolic Liquid Humic) have an antibacterial effect and can be helpful in case of a water bloom caused by bacteria as a support after a large water change.
The germ density in the aquarium water can also be reduced with the help of a Twinstar or a similar working device. Here, aggressive active oxygen is released, which destroys the bacteria and infusoria. If you work with hardening salts (GH+ or GH/KH+) for shrimps in the aquarium, you should not use such a device: Many of these salts contain sodium chloride for better solubility, which can split into sodium and chlorine through electrolysis and poison aquarium animals. If you absolutely want to operate a Twinstar or similar device on your aquarium that works with electrolysis, you should definitely switch to a chloride-free hardening salt - no matter what the manufacturers claim. There is a danger to the life of your aquarium animals!
If measures are taken to kill the bacteria in the water, it is essential that you change the water regularly, because the dead protozoa can severely pollute the aquarium water and problems can then arise again.
Greenish water turbidity
Greenish water turbidity is caused by suspended algae. They also take advantage of nutrients in the open water (but different substances than the bacteria that cause whitish water turbidity). Interestingly, a bacterial bloom or infusorial bloom is very often followed by an algal bloom.
Because suspended algae only consume oxygen at night, but produce it during the day, you can theoretically just sit out a suspended algae bloom in the aquarium. It will subside when the nutrients in the water are depleted.
Fine filter fl oss in the chamber of the internal or external filter can help trap the floating algae away. A UV-C clarifier, which destroys the algae and algae spores in the open water, has also been shown to help with an algae bloom. A Twinstar can also be used to combat algae blooms - but again, use caution when working with chloride-containing hardening salt for shrimp or fish.
Water fleas can be used for algae blooms in filterless aquariums stocked with shrimp. They feed on suspended algae and clean the water with amazing efficiency.