The white spot disease in fish aquarium

What is white spot disease?

Hardly any other fish disease is discussed as frequently as the phenomenon also called "white spot disease" or "semolina grain disease". However, diagnosed and treated in time, it can be completely cured. Basically, the skin parasite Ichthyophtirius multifiliis occurs in every aquarium, but certain conditions are necessary for it to become a problem in the first place. If these are present, it is easy for the parasites, which can grow up to 1.5 millimeters in size and can thus be easily detected, to penetrate the mucosal layer, where they then attach themselves. Since medications alone are not skin-penetrating enough to get rid of the culprit, further action is needed for a successful cure.

Unlike other parasites, the trophont, as it is called in the early stages, does not suck fish blood, but feeds on the fish's cells. With the help of its gland, it places itself in the outer and inner layers of the skin. In the process, the pest releases special substances that lead to skin cell thickening, which in turn "immunize" it from drug treatments.

White spot disease, scientifically called ichthyophthiosis, manifests itself initially in small white spots that gradually spread over the entire fish. Fish with a susceptible immune system are particularly susceptible, the trigger for which was often stress. They form so-called swarming stages which spread throughout the aquarium and settle on weakened fish.

Recognizing white spot disease

Infected animals show changes in the mucous membrane, which becomes inflamed and slimy and visibly covered with white spots. Affected fish also often separate from the group, clamp their fins and rub themselves against furnishings. Occasionally, they may also "slide" across the gravel bottom in an attempt to find relief from the itchy stowaways. Food is also frequently refused.

Treatment methods for white spot disease

To get rid of Ichthyo, there are some treatment methods, but some of them should be used with caution. On average, a complete remission can only be expected after about three weeks, provided that the treatment is adhered to.

The first step is, of course, a course of medication, for which the fish keeper should seek expert advice. Not every medication is suitable for community tanks, especially if invertebrates such as shrimps, snails or crayfish also live in the aquarium. Especially copper-based preparations are very quickly their undoing. The addition of a weak saline solution can also be helpful. Depending on the species of fish, the infestation with the parasites can be helped by a gradual increase in temperature up to 31 °C. Before doing so, however, it should be found out whether the animals can tolerate this and the temperature should be raised by a maximum of 1 °C daily and then slowly lowered again after the treatment. However, since this could potentially lead to oxygen shortage in the water, the aquarium should be well ventilated during this time. For this purpose Oxydatorsbut also Aerators.

A treatment by frequent transfer into other aquariums, if one has an appropriate number of quarantine tanks, is practically hardly applicable. Although the fish "loses" more and more of the parasites in this way and can eventually recover itself, all aquariums should be disinfected and treated before new fish are introduced. In addition, the permanent transfer can cause further stress, which is rather counterproductive.

Prophylaxis

In order to avoid an outbreak, new fish should be taken to their new home with utmost care and should be accustomed to the new water parameters just as carefully and finally also be used - one by one. Transport water should always be disposed of and never enter the aquarium. Water testing is often underestimated and in some places rigorously ignored. This "overestimation of oneself", especially when starting out in aquaristics, is often paid for by fish with their health. Even if experienced aquarists have their water values quasi "in their urine", they also measure certain values from time to time - mostly they have become accustomed in the course of time and on the basis of several experiences to which parameters potential problems could arise. However, even the most experienced professional is not completely immune.

New stones can be disinfected before decorating, those who want to use InVitro plants instead of a colorful cut mixture from dubious sources already sets a big milestone to fish health. Even if the great Guppy in the sales tank looks sad or sits so alone in its corner, it should be left better, where it is, since it could possibly already show first signs of a disease.

Biological preparations that enrich the water with humic substances are also beneficial to the health of the fish. These have a slightly acidifying effect and have an astringent effect on the scales and mucous membranes. This makes it more difficult for parasites to penetrate and gain a foothold. Also the Twinstar Sterilizer also does a good job and, like a Oxydator   can also help to reduce the density of pathogenic germs and bacteria.

Recognize and eliminate stress factors

The mere presence of white spot pathogens in almost any aquarium is no cause for concern. They are triggered primarily by various stress factors. These include transport of the animals, but also polluted aquarium water, unsuitable accompanying fish, (rough) relocation, incorrect temperatures, but also water changes with unsuitable temperatures or water parameters. All these factors favor the infestation with parasites and can - on balance - be generously prevented.

Stress can be caused especially by transport and moving to a new environment, but also by bad water conditions. The pathogens of the disease, so-called ciliates, can be introduced into the aquarium by plants, but also stones and other aquarium equipment and even other fish.

First aid for white spots

If the culprit is identified in good time, it is advisable to carry out a generous water change to reduce the density of the parasites, which form swarm stages. The fresh water should be as warm or even one degree warmer than the aquarium water. Helpful drugs in this regard are preparations that work by means of methylene blue. However, since this substance is sensitive to light, the light should be dimmed or switched off completely during the treatment Aquarium lighting should be dimmed or switched off completely during the treatment. It is mandatory to use the preparation according to the instructions and to perform water changes at appropriate intervals.

Also, once a therapy has been started, it should be completed, otherwise the parasites will multiply again unhindered and could even lead to the death of the fish, as they spread over their entire body up to the gills. The cause of death in this case is often suffocation, which is avoidable. After a successful treatment the aquarium water should be filtered with Activated carbon filtered of the last drug residues and treated.